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Julie Smith, a remarkable woman whose idea of adventure began not in the Himalayas, but in the windswept badlands of South Dakota.
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From her early curiosity about adventure to a lifetime spent on the world's highest peak, Julie's story is one of focus, discipline, and deep faith.
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After nearly four decades as a medical laboratory scientist, she devoted her free time to the mountains.
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Each climb, a test not only of endurance, but of purpose.
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She has summitted the topest peak on every continent, the seven summits, and attempted that effort three times, both from the north and south faces.
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On one climb to return back, within reach of the top to save another climber's life.
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Through her steady pace, unwavering resolve, and belief that joy and humility belong at every altitude, Julie reminds us that greatness isn't measured by height, but by heart.
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This is her story of faith, focus, and what it truly means to keep climbing.
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Well, good morning, Julie.
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We are welcoming you to Upper Creek with Neil, our podcast, and uh you are a bonus episode for us about climbing to new heights.
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Uh, we've had a chance to know each other um over the last several years, and you have climbed with my wife, and she's always talked about how compelling you are and how uh challenging you are and what you've taught her.
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And uh as you know, she just recently got back from her um tour or trek at El Camino Santiago, and she referred to you many times.
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But uh this is going to be a bonus episode, and we look forward to uh welcoming you to the show.
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Okay, well thanks.
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Yeah, it's good to be here.
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Well, great.
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Um Julie, what was your last climb?
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Where have you been?
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Oh, just yesterday we hiked up um to Hogback Mountain.
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You know, we got a lot of snow in the mountains here, so we went to White Pass and just hiked up and skied down.
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It's always fun to get out there and enjoy the first snow that falls.
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Oh, that's great.
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I we're always admire your adventures and and where you've been and where you've come from.
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But um I guess I'd like to reflect back on where you were born.
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You were born in the Black Hills of South Dakota, and having been there in near Deadwood area, that is a beautiful uh country.
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Um but how did that stir your curiosity about doing an adventure or adventures?
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Oh, you know, I think um I don't know that that did so much because you know we grew up on a farm and really did not leave.
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We kind of went to visit relatives once a year, and that was about it.
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Um, but certainly we hiked in the hills.
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I had a pastor there at our church who took our youth group out hiking in the Black Hills.
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He probably got me started, you know, doing a lot of hiking, and I enjoyed being out in the hills.
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There was it was fun.
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And it's fun being with people too, you know, that we uh that we hiked with.
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And yeah, he was uh really I looked back and that was a lot of work for him to get us all out on these hikes.
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So yeah, that was fun.
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I enjoyed the people there in the Black Hills and still do.
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I still get back there once in a while and enjoy a lot of the people that I went to high school with, I still get together with them and it's fun to fun to see them.
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That is absolutely stunning, beautiful country to see.
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It's it's amazing to see that country.
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But uh uh you shared in your bio that how your brothers introduced you to the adventure, and and I guess I'd like to ask uh how did how did that um introduction from your brothers lead you to the adventures you've done?
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You know, I think um as an athlete, you know, in high school and in college, I played sports, and so I really enjoyed being active.
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But my senior year of college, my two oldest brothers invited me to go to the Wind River Range of Wyoming.
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And we went in there on a 10-day hike and climbed a couple of peaks that were 13,000 feet and saw all these mountains and these lakes and went fishing.
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And I thought, oh, I want to do this the rest of my life.
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This is really fun.
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Um, and so that probably um that's how they got me started.
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So my brother Cord was part of the instigator of all of that.
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He'd been climbing out in the Tetons and uh in the Wind River Range, and so that was and I had seen pictures of him climbing down in the Andes Mountains, and so that was always inspiring.
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He was a big inspiration to me getting out in the mountains.
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Yeah.
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Did you ever think at that time that you would go on to summit the seven summits?
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Oh no, not at all.
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I never thought I would even attempt Everest because it's too dangerous.
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I thought it was too dangerous.
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It is dangerous.
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I'm not gonna say that it's not, but um no, I never yeah, that just that whole progression was just you know a lifetime of climbing.
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And I think had I gotten married and had kids, there's no way I would have gone on to climb at all.
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But um, yeah, you know, I just never got married, never had kids.
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And so, you know, you kept climbing more difficult stuff, and then you kept climbing higher at higher elevations and finding that I was, you know, God made me so I was able to climb.
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You know, he gave me two legs and two lungs that I can climb.
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And not to mention, he's made this whole planet full of mountains, and I've climbed just a handful.
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You know, he's uh he's certainly, you know, it's a God thing that I even got to go because I think of the people who can't walk, and I can, you know, so I had no control over the mountains he made or the fact that I can walk uphill, and here I am born in a country where I could go to high school, go to college, and have an economy where I can get a job and make money to go.
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So, yeah, there's a lot of credit there to God, I think, to getting me out there.
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Um, you know, it certainly was my desire.
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I sometimes struggle with that desire because, you know, it's like um, you know, God would want me to put him first in my life, not this idol that I have over here of climbing.
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And so that's always been a struggle with me.
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Is this an idol or is this, you know, something God wants me to do?
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But certainly was my pastime and it's what I enjoyed doing.
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But um always grateful to God for bringing me back alive.
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I always had my Bible in my backpack and a prayer on my heart.
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I certainly didn't walk up to these big mountains thinking I'm gonna climb this.
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I always walked up to him thinking, I'm gonna try.
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And I always had a prayer in my heart to God that, you know, he would, you know, you know, keep me alive and bring me back in one piece.
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And, you know, if it's his will, I would get to the top.
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Um, so a lot of credit to God to for getting me through a lot of stuff.
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Yeah.
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But uh what I I always wonder what is in a person's DNA that drives them to do what you do?
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What what click or do you recall a moment when you said, I'm going to do this, I'm going to summit every mountain?
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What what was in your DNA that that just jettisoned you off?
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Yeah, you know, it is interesting because I think I'm a I want to stay alive.
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I do not want to die.
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And there's that, I mean, it's a dangerous, and I knew that by taking the basic and intermediate climbing courses through the Olympia Mountaineers.
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I knew all the risks, you know, and I had lost a friend to the mountains um when I was 24.
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She just died in her sleep on Mount Adams.
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But it made me think at the age of 24, oh, do I don't want to die, you know?
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And so, but I do want to climb these mountains.
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I knew I wanted to, I just loved it.
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It was so much fun.
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But I think it's the physical activity, um, you know, and try and it's also a puzzle trying to figure out how to get to the top, especially in rock climbing.
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You know, where can you put your hands, where can you put your feet to get up this thing?
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So there's physical activity, I think there's the puzzle of it.
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And um it's interesting.
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Someone told me this, and I think they're right.
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Um, that because I can't really pinpoint either why I would go do this stuff, because I really don't want to die, I want to live.
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But she said that some people need more stimulation than others.
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And I think there's something to that.
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When you look at these guys who are out there free soloing without a rope, I don't do that.
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Yes.
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Um their brain is different.
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Their brain is different, and I don't think they register fear, and I think they've measured that in these guys.
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They don't register fear.
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And so maybe I'm part way there, not like them, but um, maybe I'm able to put fear, fear behind me.
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And I and I know that because every year I'd go out and I'd get up on the rock and I'd think, oh, this is scary up here.
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But then you can put it out of your mind and focus on what you're doing here.
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You know, you're climbing the rock, you're not looking down where you're gonna fall.
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I think I'm able to put that fear behind me and be and I always climb something I knew I could get up because I always had a top rope on, you know, climbing rock.
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I knew what I could get up and what I would fall off of.
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And I never led anything that I was gonna fall off of.
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I was too chicken to do that.
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I didn't want to get hurt.
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And so I pretty much would look at a route and I would look at what I was able to climb, um, you know, what I what was within my ability.
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So that's so yeah, I think if I I hope I didn't digress from what your question was, but I think it's about fear, and um I think everybody's different on that level.
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You know, you look at some of those climbers who do free soloing, and they're just in a really different world uh than I am.
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But then again, there's some people who wouldn't even venture into the mountains because that's just too scary.
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Here's an interesting story.
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I have a friend, uh, and I would go hiking with her a lot.
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And she had a friend that would come from Minnesota and hike with her, also.
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And this friend from Minnesota, her mother would always be worried when she came out here and went hiking with Carol.
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And truly all they're doing is going backpacking.
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And um, when I went backpacking with Carol, so her mother was afraid when she came out here.
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My mother was relieved when I went with Carol because uh she knew we were just gonna be backpacking and not climbing.
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So it's kind of a funny where people's fears are, you know, those moms that um that worry about their kids.
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So it is interesting uh how you know in my own life, um I don't fear public speaking, you know.
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I I I welcome it.
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I I am energized by it, and it's it's it just there.
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But I can I I can never picture uh what you've looked at from a climbing perspective.
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And are there do you have other fears?
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If it's not the mountain, what do you fear?
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Oh, I fear public speaking for sure.
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Yeah.
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I would rather be on a cliff than in front of a crowd.
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You know, and I have done some slideshows and stuff, but if I have a slide to prompt me and a story to tell, that's fine.
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But just public speaking, for me, that is difficult.
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It's not, I'm not good at it for one thing.
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And um yeah, it is kind of a fear, I think, for me.
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Wow, wow.
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Yeah.
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Well, I'm gonna talk about this more on each of your uh summits that you did at which summit may have been more fearful than others, but you uh your work uh in over 37 years in uh laboratory science and that was precise, it was methodical work.
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And I guess what discipline shaped you from that work and how you approach life or how you approach climbing?
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Yeah, you know, um certainly I loved science.
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It was really fun to study science.
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Um, and certainly being in the laboratory, you know, we had to follow certain rules, and those rules had a purpose so we don't accidentally hurt the patient or kill the patient, right?
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And so um part of my job too is just looking for errors that we might have, you know, a close call or an error, you know, and we report those things and we look at them and we try to figure out how not to have that happen again, how to help the humans do the right thing.
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Well, the same thing kind of is in climbing, also.
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I used to read this book, it's called Climbing Accidents in North American Mountaineering.
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So you read about what happened and then what you could do to not have that happen.
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And safety rules come out of that, you know, and so both of those really coincided.
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My job, you know, at the hospital and also um in climbing, you know, and nobody wants to die out there, and how can you avoid that?
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So through the mountaineers and through the American Alpine Club, I had um lots of safety um uh uh information, you know, and uh and learning learning sessions.
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So that was that was helpful.
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So those two really did coincide.
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Yeah, you're right.
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It's they're both real, it's probably who I am.
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I'm sort of methodical and I like to, you know, do things one way and um try and figure out how to how to do things right, I suppose, so you don't get hurt.
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And uh I don't know if that helps, but yeah, that's uh well they say professionals in any occupation.
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Um and uh I understand of course the world series are going on now, and how even professional baseball players go back to the basics and practice the same thing over and over and over again.
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So it becomes second nature.
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So yeah.
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Does that apply to you as well when you think about how you tie in or how you uh approach a climb or a difficult situation in climbing?
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Yeah, you know, um when I think back to sports, you know, the more you play and the more you practice, the easier it becomes, actually.
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You know, you can hit that basket or you can hit your partner on a bounce pass for the layup, you know, and and all those things.
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What um and also in rock climbing, the more I was out there rock climbing, not only the stronger you get, but the more in tune you are with the rock, and the more you realize that if I hold this rock, you know, if I put my hand on this hold this way, I don't have as much strength as if I, you know, hold on it this way.
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I've got more power.
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Um, you know, it's things like that, learning that and always being, I call it being in tune with the rock.
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That was kind of my how I called it.
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Because I felt like it was a fluid movement and I felt confident in that movement.
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So yeah, being out there and practicing all the time and just going over it and over it.
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When I rock climbed a lot, I was out there at least twice a week.
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You know, we were practicing and then we were out on the rock on the weekend.
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And so that was um, yeah, just like in baseball, you know, I think you have to go back to the basics and just practice everything.
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So it's um, yeah, same thing in our jobs or in work, you know, the routine of doing things over and over can be good and bad, you know.
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You need to focus on it and always know what you're doing, and that muscle memory is there at work too.
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Um, but sometimes you can that muscle memory can put you over that edge where you're not thinking about what you're doing, too.
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I think that can be that can happen in climbing too, I think.
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I have found myself getting ready for a rappel and I had not clipped in yet because you're so used to that routine.
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And that's where double checking everything has to happen.
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You know, you need to do everything.
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So, yeah, it's amazing.
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I mean, God's kept me alive through a lot of stuff when I think back on, you know, rockfall or avalanches or just the human things that I could possibly have done wrong.
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There's twice I can think of where I was not clipped in and I should have been.
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But I didn't mean I it's not like I didn't mean to.
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I don't know what happened.
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I mean, one time I just simply was probably just going through the motions and didn't get clipped in.
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So, you know, I mean, so God has kept me alive through stuff like that, you know, and I there's really no reason I should be here.
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Why why did I get to climb these mountains?
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You know, it's he's um I give a lot of credit to God for all that he's he's done.
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But uh it's interesting to see or meet you, but one might think you are a timid librarian, but not a person of this massive strength and ability to climb seven summits.
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How did your profile or physique uh either prepare you or challenge you uh for climbing these summits?
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Yeah, you know, that's kind of an interesting question.
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I can get on a hiking trail with people and they will just leave me in the dust because I'm short.
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I'm only five foot four, and my probably my inseam is really short.
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So I don't have long legs.
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And so I don't I can't keep up with people on a trail.
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Wow, you know, going downhill or flat.
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But um, generally on the uphill, I probably have a little bit more power, maybe just in my legs, I suppose.
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And that's a God-given thing.
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It's nothing I did.
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Um, but certainly I think it's a progression.
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You know, I started climbing small stuff and then you climb bigger stuff.
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And it's also a mind thing because you know you can do 2,000 feet, and then you know, oh, I can do 4,000 feet in a day.
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Oh, you know, I can do 6,000 feet in a day, and I'm still okay.
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And um, so that's a progression both of realizing you can do it in your head, but also training yourself physically to get there.
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But yeah, the physique thing, I um certainly I was not that I'm never the fastest person going uphill.
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I never have been.
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Even on when I was on Everest, of course I'm competing with a lot of men, but even some of the women were faster than I, but I know I know my speed, and I and I know that I can get it done in a day.
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And I know what I can do in a day, I guess.
00:17:56.240 --> 00:18:02.480
Um, and I would stay within those limits is kind of what I would do, not try to push beyond that what I could do.
00:18:03.119 --> 00:18:04.960
So, yeah, I don't know.
00:18:05.039 --> 00:18:07.680
I I think there's a lot of, I had a lot of desire.
00:18:07.839 --> 00:18:12.880
I don't think I was really built to be a climber, probably, but it was sure a lot of fun.
00:18:13.039 --> 00:18:22.400
And I'm certainly not built to be a great rock climber or an ice climber, but I think when it comes to high altitude endurance, that's kind of where I excelled.
00:18:22.480 --> 00:18:25.440
Um, just that slow, steady pace uphill.
00:18:25.680 --> 00:18:31.119
And I think it's all about even on one big mountain, or even each day, there's always a goal you set for yourself.
00:18:31.200 --> 00:18:35.119
Like I'm gonna make it that first thousand feet, then I'm gonna make it the next thousand.
00:18:35.359 --> 00:18:41.759
So you're always looking forward not to the summit, but you're always looking forward to you know that first thousand feet.
00:18:41.920 --> 00:18:44.000
I'm gonna make it this far, I'm gonna make it this far.
00:18:44.160 --> 00:18:47.920
And then you always have to remember that when you get to the top, you always have to get down.
00:18:48.079 --> 00:18:50.960
I mean, that's just that's it's only half over.
00:18:51.119 --> 00:18:52.960
It's only half over when you get to the top.
00:18:53.119 --> 00:18:53.279
Yeah.
00:18:53.519 --> 00:18:55.440
Which is harder, going up or going down?
00:18:55.759 --> 00:18:58.720
Well, physically coming going up is harder.
00:18:58.880 --> 00:19:02.960
Um, you know, you're out of balance more coming down because you're facing outward.
00:19:03.119 --> 00:19:07.839
Um, so your your possibility of tripping or falling is easier coming down.
00:19:07.920 --> 00:19:10.960
Um, and you're tired, um, especially on Everest.
00:19:11.039 --> 00:19:13.200
I think that's probably the most taxing.
00:19:13.279 --> 00:19:21.200
It's hard to describe, but because of the lack of oxygen, it really taxes your body and zaps your energy, or it did for me anyway.
00:19:21.759 --> 00:19:23.440
And your mind, I presume.
00:19:23.759 --> 00:19:25.279
Yeah, yeah, your mind too.
00:19:25.440 --> 00:19:27.359
I mean, that's where that focus comes in.
00:19:27.440 --> 00:19:29.279
You're always focusing on every step.
00:19:29.519 --> 00:19:30.480
Every step counts.
00:19:30.720 --> 00:19:36.720
That went through my head a lot when I'm out there in difficult places where there's a big fall on either side.
00:19:36.960 --> 00:19:42.079
I and you're just walking, but you know, it's 10,000 feet down one side and 2,000 down the other.
00:19:42.319 --> 00:19:50.960
You're still saying every footstep counts, every footstep counts, and you're focusing, even though you're tired, you're at you know, 29,000, 28,000 feet.
00:19:51.359 --> 00:19:54.880
Um, yeah, you're focusing on every footstep.
00:19:55.119 --> 00:20:02.720
But uh it's interesting uh what you've uh taught my wife, Susan, and what she's also taught me.
00:20:02.799 --> 00:20:07.920
I'm Nora climber, but I enjoy uh getting out and seeing different things.
00:20:08.160 --> 00:20:17.200
But that pacing of yourself and step by step and taking that on, uh, explain that to us how that works for you.